La douce France
To "la douce" France...
Fireworks in Cherbourg!
Not to England this time, but to visit our southern neighbours for once!
As usually (see River Orwell, Poole/Cowes), we choose to sail to the furthest destination first and then – at a modified pace – visit several ports on the way home.
Sailing day 1 Ostend - Cherbourg 204 nm
We can sail! First current along 9 to 10 knots SOG (Speed Over Ground). Beyond Blanc Nez a dip, rain, windless, motor for a while. But when the wind picked up again: all sails set!
204 miles to Cherbourg that will be night sailing. No problem if (as usual on Elise) there are two watchkeepers. Seasoned sailors with experience. We divide the other crew evenly. The watch schedule is 4 hours.
At 10pm first watch, current against, then speed drops to 4 knots, once the current turns, gradually to 9 knots. But that’s for the second shift after 02h00. Those lucky guys have a good current the whole time! When the first shift takes over at 06:00, it’s already less. Those not on watch try to get some sleep. Around 9 a.m. it is time for breakfast, everyone is awake.
The rotation system stops, those who feel like it take the wheel, those who want to sleep or nap in bed or the VIP cockpit do so.
By noon, the “Cotentin” destination is in sight. Calling at the port is a unique experience, clearly we see the WWII defences.
We note “fixed to jetty” at 2pm, meaning with an average speed of 6.6 knots the mission accomplished!
Quatorze juillet!
Feast and rest day
We planned a day of rest and sightseeing, not paying attention to the fact that it is the bank holidays!
No big deal, Cherbourg is in party mood.
From Elise, we enjoy the beautiful fireworks over the harbour.
Sailing day 2 Cherbourg - Ouistreham 60 nm
We start the return trip towards Caen, this beautiful city is connected by a canal to the port of Ouistreham. There is little wind (NW, a downwind course), yet we sail leisurely past St Vaast-la-Hougue (the capital of oysters). We briefly test the genakker, a 250m² sail, we can’t get it “filled” nicely with so little wind.
We keep cruising a distance from the D-day beaches to the eastern point: Sword beach: Ouistreham (pronounced “wiestram”).
We have to stay at the waiting pontoon until 7pm before we can go through the lock. Just behind that lock is the cosy harbour. There is a small restaurant “les Terrasses de la Mer” , highly recommended, honest good food!
Option: one day to Caen
If the schedule allows, you should definitely visit Caen. Two and a half hours of motoring on the canal, past the historic “Pegasus Bridge”, under the “pont de Colombelles” to the city marina.
Pegasus Bridge, Caen
Sailing day 3 Ouistreham - Dieppe 70 nm
If you want to leave Ouistreham, you have to keep an eye on the lock times! So it is that we detach at 05h45 to take the 06h00 lock. Otherwise, we have to wait until the next lock opening 3 hours later.
With a moderate wind (8 to 12 knots) from NNO, it will not be an easy trip. First sharp to windward and then cruising up, zig-zagging along the Normandy coast.
The speed is good, regularly over 7 knots, but the many manoeuvres don’t make any headway. At 18:00 we give in, the engine has to be started, we want to be in Dieppe before midnight!
We approach Dieppe around 21h40 but have to wait outside, first a ferry has to leave the port. Floating in front of the port with a beautiful sunset.
So it is 10.45pm when we dock in the marina.
We needed – to cover the distance of 60 miles – more than 100 miles, we sailed 17 hours for that, during which we had to motor for 5 hours.
But we sailed, tacked many times, executed beautiful manoeuvres as a team!
Sailing day 4 Dieppe - Dunkirk 95 nm
Up early again! 06h35am the engine goes on! Another day with little, mostly variable wind. But first the sunrise at sea!
We note in order wind from the south, then southwest at 09h00 North East / East North East / East South East to shrink to West South West by noon. In short, with wind speeds below 6 knots, it’s sailing for a while, then motor, then sail again before continuing from Cap Griz Nez on motor only.
It is not until 9.40pm that we dock.
Sailing day 5 Dunkirk - Ostend 24 nm
Another moderate breeze today, only a short distance to cover. Departure at 9.30 am. Motor up in the Zuidkote pass, where we have to be careful with the 2.3 metre draught. And then sailing, we don’t do more than 6 knots, but it’s great fun with such lovely weather.
At 15:30 the trip is over, we clean the ship together and have a drink to say goodbye. With that drink, plans for the next trip are already being made.
France, lots of possibilities!
Each of the cities/ports we visited can be sailed on a separate trip.
Each destination is worth a visiting day, provide space in the plan.
For timing, you find that you are very dependent on the weather gods. If your company is up for it, you should opt for an overnight leg. This way, you make at least one big leap in the travel plan. We’re happy to help you with that, our crew will take the lead on the watch that includes at least two people….