{"id":14022,"date":"2025-01-20T17:27:06","date_gmt":"2025-01-20T17:27:06","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.noordzee-zeilen.com\/?page_id=14022"},"modified":"2025-12-02T08:41:48","modified_gmt":"2025-12-02T08:41:48","slug":"cowes-and-the-solent","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/www.noordzee-zeilen.com\/en\/inspiration\/cowes-and-the-solent\/","title":{"rendered":"Cowes and the Solent"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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Cowes and the Solent: the mecca of sailors<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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Once in a lifetime, every sailor should visit Cowes an the Solent!<\/h3>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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There are dozens of reasons, in the course of the story you will understand why this trip is a must for the sea sailor.<\/p>

Cowes is located in south England, at the tip of \u2018the Isle of Wight\u2019 and on the waterway the \u2018Solent\u2019.\u00a0 This cosy little town is the centre of sailing in the UK<\/strong> and far beyond.\u00a0 Legendary races such as the Fastnet race<\/strong> and many small and large regattas depart from here.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Cowes esplanade<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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The Solent is sheltered to the north-west of the Isle of Wight<\/strong>, protected from the influences of the open sea, yet always with a pleasant sailing breeze.\u00a0 On the Solent you will find historic towns like Southampton and Portsmouth, shipyards, museums, universities (obviously specialising in naval architecture), many places of interest.\u00a0 Everything breathes nautical atmosphere and history.<\/p>

And as so often with sailing trips, the trip, the route to this destination is an unforgettable experience<\/strong>.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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The trip preparation is a tough job, we prefer sailing to the destination in one go<\/strong>, it impossible in a 24-hour period.\u00a0 We count at least a day and a half, so wind direction and strength will have an important role.\u00a0 We keep a close eye on the forecasts the days beforehand, but on the day(s) itself you are at the mercy of the weather gods.<\/p>

We embark the evening before to leave on time in the morning.\u00a0 With little wind predicted, we leave with the current around 9 a.m. and, with a little motoring, we manage to do an average of 7 knots. \u00a0We decided to go along the Zuydcoote pass. Always nice to sail along the French coast and see Dunkirk again. Around noon, we are at the height of Calais and on the other side we can already see the cliffs of Dover.<\/strong><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Oostende - Cowes<\/h3>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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The meals on board<\/strong> have something special!<\/p>

Out in the open together in the cockpit, under the bimini… enjoying a pasta with pesto, chicken and sun-dried tomatoes. just a nice baguette with hot sausage \u2018hot dog\u2019 or cheeseburger we like it!<\/p>

There is plenty of creativity to vary the appetisers over the afternoon and evening.
Time for aperitif!<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Yay!\u00a0 Around 3pm, we note<\/strong> \u2018DOLFINS\u2019<\/strong> in the logbook.\u00a0 This time they rush ahead and alongside the bow as if to prove that they are faster than us!<\/strong>\u00a0 Always a special moment that, fortunately, we often write in the logbook on similar trips.<\/p>

We can start crossing the \u2018traffic-lane\u2019 in the Channel safely.<\/strong> \u00a0Always exciting.\u00a0 The crew focuses on the chart plotter.\u00a0 It can be very busy.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Before departure, arrangements are made with the \u2018crew\u2019 about the layout and duration of the \u2018watches\u2019<\/strong>.\u00a0 Important, not so much for daytime, but for the night trip.\u00a0 Experience tells us that four hours of watch is ideal, not too tiring for the watchman who has to stay alert and enough for a nap by the other crew.\u00a0 With always three or more certificated shipmates, there is no problem in putting together at least two balanced shifts.<\/p>

During the day, that shift play is not so important, everyone takes the helm at times and when crossing the traffic system<\/strong> (the TSS: the Channel’s shipping highway), everyone is along for the ride.<\/p>

From 9pm onwards, it’s discipline!\u00a0 Shift 1 takes responsibility after dinner, shift 2 goes to sleep.\u00a0 Meanwhile, there is a nice breeze so the Elise<\/span> goes into the night without disturbing engine noise.<\/p>

You have to experience it: night sailing is something special!\u00a0 <\/strong>The atmosphere is hard to describe, the darkness and silence set the senses on edge and the gentle sound of the ship cleaving the waves is an experience in itself.<\/strong>\u00a0 Completely dark it is not, the stars, the lights of the towns and villages on the coastal strip help orientate you.<\/p>

Of course, it remains to look out for the navigation lights of nearby ships, the chart plotter gives you info on commercial shipping, meanwhile a good lookout is essential!<\/p>

At 1am, it’s up to shift 2 to take over. These have the thankless \u2018dog watch\u2019<\/strong>, this watch is the hardest to keep vigilant!\u00a0 Strictly speaking, the dog watch is from midnight to four o’clock, by agreement this time we start the first group at 9pm and so we partially share the \u2018difficult\u2019 hours.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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The trip along the English coast is certainly not boring<\/strong>, you sail between the diverse coastal landscape and the busy fairway.\u00a0 Now it is night and looking out for landmarks, often lighthouses or rare buoys.\u00a0 Relatively recent phenomena are the wind farms that very recognisably break the darkness with red flashing lights on the turbines.<\/p>

The landmarks, milestones on this route are Dungeness, Beachy Head or well-known towns like Eastborne, Newhaven and Brighton.<\/strong>\u00a0 By day (as on the return), there is plenty of time to admire the attractive and varied natural beauty of the coast, now we have only the lights.<\/p>

We note in the logbook that the wind force gradually increases and the boat speed picks up to 9 knots.\u00a0 At \u2018Beachy<\/strong> Head\u2019<\/strong> almost 40 miles past Dover, the Elise<\/span> is running 8 knots over water, but the current pushes along and we record 9.2 knots over ground around 4.30am.\u00a0 It’s up to the first watch crew to take back the helm.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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The trip along the English coast<\/h3>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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\u00a0<\/p>

Of course the dawn and sunrise at sea is also a special moment, the colours, the scenery the atmosphere you don’t forget.<\/strong><\/p>

Meanwhile, watch carefully, there is a wind farm on the course and we are approaching the eastern approach for the \u2018Solent\u2019. In the morning, the wind picks up and we need to reduce some sail.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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In the early 19th century, Portsmouth<\/strong> was the most heavily fortified city in the world and was considered \u2018the greatest naval port in the world\u2019<\/strong>.\u00a0 A ring of defensive forts on land and sea, known as the Palmerston Forts, was built around Portsmouth.\u00a0 These Round Forts (called cowes) lie port and starboard in the Solent as we set course for Cowes.\u00a0<\/p>

For safety, we follow the well-defined fairway, which is still 13 miles and in the Solent the current is not negligible!\u00a0 Plenty of opportunity to admire the island’s rolling landscape.\u00a0 On the water you can see large and small sailing yachts cruising back and forth, with some luck we can spot a regatta.
<\/strong>After noon, we dock in the busy Cowes Yacht Harbour, not always easy for a 64-foot vessel.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Cowes, time to soak up the towns atmosphere<\/h3>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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The pleasant narrow main street (High Street is almost entirely traffic-free) is a colourful mix of restaurants, nautical clothing shops, boutiques and souvenir shops.<\/strong>\u00a0 Don’t forget to stop for a moment at the display window of the Beken family of photographers.\u00a0 They have been photographing yachts such as sailing schooners, steam yachts and later modern yachts on the Solent since the late 19th century.\u00a0 The sometimes spectacular action photos<\/strong> are gems for those looking for a souvenir.
Look in the side streets leading to the various harbours, where there are cosy pubs<\/strong> all about sailing.<\/p>

You should definitely walk down to the \u2018Esplanade\u2019 where the two Royal Yacht Clubs<\/strong> are located and we can see the competition starting flags.\u00a0 Small cannons stand on the quay ready to give the starting gun<\/strong> as this is where the Fastnet race, the Round the Island Race, the Ocean Race and, of course, Cowes week departs<\/strong>.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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\nThe Isle of Wight<\/h3>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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For those with more time, the surrounding area has a lot to offer.<\/p>

Cowes lies on the River Medina<\/strong>, which you can explore by water taxi<\/strong>, for example, to visit the town of Newport and possibly Carisbrooke Castle<\/strong>.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Not to be missed is a visit to Osborne House<\/strong>, a former royal residence, now a museum with beautiful gardens where you can enjoy a high tea.\u00a0 It was built as a summer residence for Queen Victoria and her husband Prince Albert.<\/p>

You really are on the film set for a historical drama<\/strong>: Victoria and Abdul, Mrs Brown, Edward the king, A history of Britain, Treasure hunt, Victoria and Albert, The victorians… all contain scenes from Osborne House.<\/p>

Down by the Solent runs a small track to take Queen Victoria’s bathing coach to the Solent….<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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\u00a0<\/p>

It’s quiet time to start the return journey.\u00a0 There are several options, to be considered according to the time available<\/strong>.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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The return...<\/h3>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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The Needles<\/h3>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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\u00a0<\/p>

In the western Solent to the sea, you pass the \u2018Needles\u2019<\/strong>.\u00a0 These jagged rocky points are \u2018the sentinels\u2019 on the open sea<\/strong>, having passed the narrowest stretch at Hurst Castle and Yarmouth.\u00a0<\/p>

It is a wonderful route for lovers of the jagged landscape.\u00a0 No wonder the Solent is so popular with sailors<\/strong>.\u00a0 You have to calculate very well to have right the current and you can go in different directions at the Needles.\u00a0<\/p>

Any trip east (i.e. home) via the Needles is 50 miles longer, you have to allow for night trips.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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\n\nWhere to go from Cowes...<\/h3>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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You could, of course, use that strait to do a round the Isle of Wight<\/strong>!\u00a0 Definitely worthwhile for driven sailors.\u00a0<\/p>

Count on a hefty day trip and dodging rocks and shallows.\u00a0 65 to 70 miles, that’s easily 10 hours of sailing with and against current.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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The Solent and Cowes are a coveted stopover on the way to or from further western ports and cruising grounds.<\/strong>\u00a0 Poole is close by and set in an idyllic bay.\u00a0 Further destinations on the south coast include Weymouth, Dartmouth and Plymouth.<\/p>

Crossing the Channel is also possible, Cherbourg or even the Channel Islands are within acceptable distance<\/strong>.\u00a0 You could opt for a \u2018French\u2019 return trip past Cherbourg, Ouistreham, Dieppe, Dunkirk, etc.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Alas – we have to get home – so we head along the east side of the island and plan a stopover in Brighton<\/strong>.<\/p>

The western option to Brighton is too long for a day trip and we are lucky, the ESE – wind of around 15 knots ensures that we are constantly sailing between the coast and the traffic system at 7 knots and more.\u00a0 We left Cowes at 9:40am and after eight hours of lovely sailing, we moor the Elise<\/span> in Brighton’s new harbour.<\/p>

That port is beyond the city so we sail past the legendary Pier<\/strong>, a foretaste that makes us long for a visit.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Brighton<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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Given the tropical temperatures (40\u00b0), we take the historic little train that shuttles between the city and the harbour.\u00a0 Brighton is one of the UK’s most famous and largest seaside resorts<\/strong>. It is still home to many old Victorian buildings including the striking Royal Pavilion<\/strong> converted by John Nash for George IV.\u00a0 Fun anecdote; Queen Victoria sold this remarkable building to pay for Osborne House.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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We take a look around the spectacular pier<\/strong> full of various attractions, playhouses, pubs, clubs, bars, restaurants, caf\u00e9s and shops, populated by a colourful and diverse crowd.<\/p>

We walk along the embankment back to our ship to have dinner in the outdoor cockpit, enjoying the evening sun.\u00a0<\/p>

Although there is a wide range of restaurants in every port town, we like to chill out on board<\/strong>.\u00a0 You take your time, cosy aperitifs, snacks and there is always a volunteer ship’s cook.\u00a0 It doesn’t have to be culinary delights, often someone has prepared a delicacy and frozen it away in the comfortable galley.\u00a0<\/p>

At the table, we discuss plans for the onward journey back.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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We opt for another stop in Dover<\/strong>, the forecast promising sailing fun again.
And it’s true: from the start at 8:00 am we record 18 – 19 knots of true wind. The Elise<\/span> cleaves the waves again at 8 knots.\u00a0 At Beachy Head, we tack for the first time and see the counter go to 9 knots.\u00a0 With sunny, weather (we learn afterwards that it was swelteringly hot ashore) and the favourable sailing wind, we once again enjoy this voyage.<\/p>

These are rolling landscapes that pass Hastings and Dungeness and Folkestone at the last turn into the famous White Cliffs of Dover.
<\/strong>We could have been there by 20:00h if the wind had stayed in post.\u00a0 Alas, unsurprisingly after a hot day: around 19:00h we enter windlessness, occasional whiffs of wind from varying angles.\u00a0 In short, there is no more progress unless we use the iron sail (the Yanmar 136HP).\u00a0 So it is only at 10pm that we moor at a hammerhead in the new harbour.\u00a0 That new port is a blessing for us, as in the old outer harbour there was barely any usable space for a (nearly) 20-metre vessel.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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 <\/strong><\/p>\n

Dover Ostend is a familiar trip for the skipper and regular crew.<\/strong> We cast off again around 9:00 am, are ordered to use the Eastern \u2018entrance\u2019 and decide to cross the Traffic lane immediately. <\/p>\n

The southwest wind helps, as at 17 to 20 knots we can safely cross the \u2018ship’s highway\u2019 on sail at 8 knots over ground<\/strong>. <\/p>\n

By noon, we are on the French coast and past Dunkirk to the Zuydcoote Pass.  To sail along the French coast, it is important to have the tide and wind with us. Speed over ground varies between 8-10 knots. <\/p>\n

Calm sea, winds of 18-20 knots and sunshine. Our last day could not have been better. Sailing is truly enjoyable!<\/strong><\/p>\n

The lock master of the Mercator Marina has us in his sights and holds the lock for us.<\/strong>  Fifteen minutes later, we are moored in our spot, happy after another great day of sailing.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Cowes and the Solent, lots of opportunities!<\/h3>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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For timing, you are very dependent on the weather gods.\u00a0 It’s best to opt for a night leg.\u00a0 That way, you make at least one big leap in your itinerary<\/strong>.\u00a0 We are happy to help you, with our crew taking the lead on every watch, which is at least two people.<\/p>

We can plan the return trip according to the time available and the weather.\u00a0 Each of the cities\/ports we visited on the way back can be sailed on a day trip.<\/p>

Each destination is worth a visiting day<\/strong>, allow for space in the plan.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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